11 August 2019

NAGPUR -VARANASI - GAYA - NALANDA - CHITRAKOOT - NAGPUR  TRIP

This  Screen shot map gives complete Nagpur - Jabalpur - Rewa - Varanadsi - gaya - Nalanda - Rajgir - Gaya - varanasi - Chitrakoot - Nagpur.
This is a screen shot of the map of that trip. 
Detail route followed :
Nagpur - Jabalpur - Rewa -  Varanasi - Bhdhgaya - Gaya.  - gaya - Nalanda - Rajgir - Gaya -  Vishnupad Temple - Sasaram - Varanasi Gagnapur - Mohan Sarai - Allahabad - Chirrakoot - Nagpur.
The Map shows complete Trip done between 08 nOV TO 16 nOV 2003 . Unfortunately it does not open by clicking on it nor is it an interactive one. So it does not give much information. On the other hand interactive map gives full details. To open interactive 
MA- PHO- OGRAPH (Google Map with Photographs) GO HERE.
Route in detail : Nagpur-Bhojpur-Bhopal-Vidisha-Gyaraspur-Sagar-Chhatarpur Khajuraho- Orcha-Jhans-Datia- Gwalior- mathura- Delhi,Palam Vihar.
Night halts at : Bhopal, Sagar, Khajuraho, Gwalior and Mathura.
For photos all in Album 26 GO HERE.

TRIP.
One of our friend had Jabalpur connection. Had heard and read lyrical descriptions of how beautiful Marbal Rocks of Bhedaghat near Jabalpur look in the light of full moon. Had also wanted to visit Bodhgaya, Nalanda etc so planned a trip for MP, UP and Bihar Aim was to cover as many places as are shown by a star on our TTK map.
Started the journey at 0515 on 08 November 2003 which was a full moon day to catch marbal rocks in all their pristine glory.
JABAPUR.

Panoramic View of Jabalpur from Rani Durgavati Fort. Barracks in foreground.

Went straight to Sainik Vishram Grah (SVG) at Jabalpur, reached there at 1030. 
eached there at 1030. Lot of SVG have air conditioned officer's accommodation. Occupancy rate being poor, most of the time they remaine closed. Consiquently when opened they feel musty with stale air. Freshened up, told the caretaker to leave the room open to remove stale air and left for Dhuandhar Water Falls.
             DHUANDHAR WATER FALLS.                
The Dhuandhar Falls are located on Narmada River in Bhedaghat and are 30 meters high. The Narmada River, making its way through the world-famous Marble Rocks, narrows down and then plunges in a waterfall known as Dhuandhaar. The plunge, which creates a bouncing mass of mist, is so powerful that its roar is heard from a far distance.
For more details go 
The Marble Rocks, near Bhedaghat,Jabalpur is an area along the Narmada river. The river has carved the soft marble, creating a beautiful gorge of about 8 km in length. Particularly during full moon night when the beauty is enhanced. It is a popular Indian tourist destination. The local marble is mined and carved into various figures and transported all over India. 
 Earlier, the Gorge was narrow in size and hence, monkeys could cross over from one side to another. This gave the Gorge its local name- Bandar Kudni (meaning- Monkey's jumping place). The white marbles are predominantly rich in magnesium and are closer in hardness to soap stone. This softness allows them to be carved. The area also contains blue and brown coloured marble.The area has many tourist activities. There is a cable car to take visitors across the gorge, row boats for guided tours of the river downstream of the falls, and many small shops filled with crafts made from the local materials.For more details go to  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhuandhar_Falls .




The Marble Rocks, near Bhedaghat,Jabalpur is an area along the Narmada river. The river has carved the soft marble, creating a beautiful gorge of about 8 km in length. Particularly during full moon night when the beauty is enhanced. It is a popular Indian tourist destination. The local marble is mined and carved into various figures and transported all over India. 
 Earlier, the Gorge was narrow in size and hence, monkeys could .....
 ....cross over from one side to another. This gave the Gorge its local name- Bandar Kudni (meaning- Monkey's jumping place). The white marbles are predominantly rich in magnesium and are closer in hardness to soap stone. This softness allows them to be carved. The area also contains blue and brown coloured marble.The area has many tourist activities. There is a cable car to take visitors across the gorge, row boats for guided tours of the river downstream of the falls, and many small shops filled with crafts made from the local materials.For more details go tohttps://en.wikipedia.org/wikiDhuandhar_Falls For photos go to album 26 link given earlier. For photos go to album 26 link given earlier. 
Madan Mahal FORT.

Even though google map shows this place as Devi Durgavati Fort, it should be edited to Madan Mahal Fort. Madan Mahal fort is a popular tourist attraction in Jabalpur city 


Madan Mahal fort is a popular tourist attraction in Jabalpur city  
Madan Mahal fort is constructed in 11th century under the rule of 37th Gond ruler Madan Singh. Although Madan Mahal fort is named as fort but basically it was a military post which was used as watch tower and military barrack, a fortified garrison at top of hill from which whole area could be viewed. It was basically used as Gond military post to keep eye on nearby areas and check any military expedition toward their region. During of Madan Mahal fort visit, we can see the structure having rooms, stables, secret passages, ancient scripts, corridors etc. All these arrangements indicated that it was basically a military post where army men and their horses are kept.
For more details go here  http://www.madhya-pradesh-tourism.com/heritage/forts/madan-mahal-jabalpur.html
For photos go to album 26 link given earlier.  



HEERA VATIKA.

Heera Vatika forms part of Rani Durgavati Nuseum.
Good collection of excellent artifacts kept in Heera Vatika belonged to Dr Hira Lal Rai of Katni. These  were brought and retained at  Rani Durgavati  Museum. For his contribution place where thase are displayed has been named "Heera Vatika".
By now it was approaching late afternoon. There was a great build up. Returned to SVG so that we could go back again for foll moon vieving of marble rocks.
By sun set there was heavy down pour and no chance of clearing up.
 It was a good thing that we took afternoon ride because. Otherwise we would have missed Marble Rocks in toto. And would have felt sad. 
09 November 2003.
Next morning, ie 09 Nov, started from SVG at 0615.70- 80  odd kilometres short of Katni, noticed temp warning light was on, the engine was over heating. Stopped, waited for light to go off. Started again. after few kilometres it was on again, Again waited, started, this continued for almost 30-40 KMs. During one of our stops a maruti van stopped and asked us if they could be of any help. Told them if they could toe us to nearest garage. Asked about a rope for towing, we had one. After our experience in Rajasthan, I always carried rope just for such an emergency. Those good Samaritans were business men from Jabalpore and were going to attend Stasang at Radhoswami Satsang Beas at Katni. They towed us 40 KMs to a work shop. As matter of courtesy we also attended satsang. Greatly impressed by their discipline and punctuality.  
Got the car repaired and proceeded to Rewa Sainik School. Reached there by 1730. Because of engine trouble had taken almost 12 hours to cover just 237 odd KMs.We met Lt Col Jose Thomas,the Principle for accommodation. Maj Jagdev Shaha (?), Head Master was liks enough to show us to the room Stayed the night in their guest house. Were served with same menu as for the resident students.  




Our Car was over heating . Did not want to drive with this condition to prevent engine seizure . These Good Samaritans towed us 40 odd KMs to a workshop in Katni .
Will be forever grateful to them.






Got the car repaired and proceeded to Rewa Sainik School. Reached there by 1730. Because of engine trouble had taken almost 12 hours to cover just 237 odd KMs.We met Lt Col Jose Thomas,the Principle for accommodation. Maj Jagdev Shaha (?), Head Master was kind enough to show us to the room. Stayed the night in their guest house. Were served with same menu as for the resident students.  
Started for Varanasi 0800. 



           
       On the way to Varanasi.             Non existing NH7- Bihar              Lunch at Mirzapur.

10 November 2003. 
Started fro Sainik School around 0800. Crossed Mauganj, Had lunch after Mirzapur 1500 -1520. Ganga Brodge at 1630. Reached Officers Maess, of No, 4 Selection Board Varanasi at 1755.
11 November 2003.
Hired an autoriksha for sight seeing in Varanasi and Sarnath. 
Varanasi : Kashi Vishwanath Mandir, ManMandir Archeological Museum, Ghats of Banaras, Kachoriwali gali, Manas Mandir,BHU, Birla mandir or New Kashi Vishwanath,  
Sarnath : Chaukhandi Stupa, Roshpattan Road, Tibetian temple, Mulagandha Kuti Vihara , Wat Thai Temple at Sarnath, Dhamekh Stupa, Sarnath 
VARANASI. 
Life of Varanasi- The Ghats on Ganges.

Kashi Vishwanath Mandir 


 Unfortunately there are no photos of Kashivishwanath Temple. Closest we have photos are of Sakshi Ganapati in lane leading to The Kashivishwanath Temple. 
Kashivishwanath Temple is one of the 12 Jyotirlanga. It is located in extremely narrow, crowded and congested streets. It is said that this is a place in continuous habitation of human race since the beginning of time. The level of holy well has gone down so much only because if the occupying generations have left layer after layer of their existence. Had Darshan, with clear view of the shiv ling. quite lucky as we were told due to the rush and crowds peaceful and clear view of linga is quite rare.
For Full Information of the temple go to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kashi_Vishwanath_Temple 

Man Mandir Archeological Obsevatory and Ghat.

On the bank of River Ganges amongst continuous run of famous ghats one after the other nestles a great palace like building, in fact at one time it indeed was a palace, Man Mandir Palace, to House the princely family of Amber when ever they visited Varanasi. 
Information on Man Mandir Archaeological Observatory and Ghat. Earlier Man mandir Ghat was known as Someshvara Ghat. In 1586 king Raja Savai Man Singh (of Amber, Rajasthan) built his palace and developed this ghat, that is how the name given to this ghat. He also built a magnificent palace on the ghat known for exquisite, ornately carved window carvings. 
The porches and windows of the palace are excellent example of medieval period Rajput and Durg styles. On the top roof Savai Jai Singh-II (1686-1743) built a Hindu Observatory in 1710. Savai Jai Singh, the king of Amber estate in Rajasthan was a genius of a most unusual kind, an expert mathematician and astronomer as well as an enlightened ruler and builder. It is one of the last constructions of the ‘Astronomical Stone Age’. One can get a panoramic view of all the ghats of Varanasi from the terrace of this palace.
Source :  https://en.wikiversity.org/wiki/The_Varanasi_Heritage_Dossier/Man_Mandir_and_Man_Singh_Observatory
 GHATS & BOAT RIDE ON GANGES.


                                  


A Ghat is a built up stepped strusture inveriably built in stone. Steps leading to the water level. Built with sufficient depth so that divotees and bathers can step directly in water from paved surface, irrespective of water level of the river. 
There are 88 (some place the figure at 100.) Ghats on River Ganges in Varanasi. Only Cremetions areperformed on two Ghats, Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats. All other ghats are used for bathing and puja rituals. One can see firly large number of ghats from the terrace of Man Mandir Palace. 
Most Varanasi ghats were rebuilt after 1700 AD, when the city was part of Maratha Empire. The patrons of current ghats are Marathas, Shindes (Scindias), Holkars, Bhonsles, and Peshwes (Peshwas). Many ghats are associated with legends or mythologies while many ghats are privately owned.
Of all the ghats, eight most popular ghats are, Assi Ghat, Chet Singh Ghat,Darbhanga Ghat , Dasaswamedh Ghat, Man Mandir Ghat,Scindhia Ghat,Bhonsale Ghat and Manikarnika Ghat.
In addition to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghats_in_Varanasi, another very good site is : https://www.tripsavvy.com/must-see-ghats-in-varanasi-1539761
Morning boat ride on the Ganges across the ghats is a popular visitors attraction.  



        

Not leave the beaten touristy path also took a boat ride. One can have a good look at the ghats as your boat slide aceoss on the Ganges. 
After this had a orientation tour, as is known in group travel itenerery. Took photoof some interesting places..

   
                     Kachri wali Gali .                                 One of the Gates, Banaras Hindu Universirty.
Visited Kachori Gali. Very narrow congested lane. Most of the shops were closed apparently the place really buzzes with activity in the evenings with aroma of frying kachories in the air all over. Passed in frot of Banaras Hindu Unoversuty gate. One of the older and very highly rated university.  
                                 
             Manas Mandir.                                                             Birla mandir. New Vishwanath temple. 
Went and had alook at Mans mandir . Walls of the temple are inscribed with the couplets (dohas) from Ram Charit Manas. Poetic epic on Ramsa life wretten by Sait Tulsi das. 
Shri Vishwanath Mandir also known as Vishwanath Mandir, Vishwanath Temple, New Vishwanath Temple and Birla Temple is one of the most famous temples and biggest tourist attractions in the holy city of Varanasi. The temple is situated in Benaras Hindu University and is dedicated to the Lord Shiva. Shri Vishwanath Mandir has the tallest temple tower in the world
After this the riksha fellow suggested that we proceed to Sarnath. Not having any other plan we agreed and so proceeded to SARNATH. 
SARNATH. 
After Birla Mandir in Varanasi we set our for Sarnath. First place we came across was Chaukhandi Stupa
Chaukahandi Stupa. 
Chaukhandi Stupa is an important Buddhist stupa in Sarnath, located 8 kilometres from Cantt Railway Station Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India. Stupas have evolved from burial mounds and serve as a shrine for a relic of the Buddha.
The Chaukhandi Stupa is thought originally to have been built as a terraced temple during the Gupta period between the 4th and 6th centuries to mark the site where Lord Buddha and his first disciples met traveling from Bodh Gaya to Sarnath. Later Govardhan, the son of a Raja, modified the stupa to its present shape by building the octagonal tower to commemorate the visit of Humayun, the powerful Mughal ruler.
Today the stupa is a high earthen mound covered with a brickwork edifice topped by an octagonal tower. It is   maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. Another good place for   info : https://www.indianholiday.com/tourist-attraction/sarnath/monuments-in-sarnath/chaukhandi.html  





Giant buddha Statue.
Went to the place were a giant standing Buddha statue was planned to be installed. When we visited only a huge but good looking padestal was under construction. Almost done bur still lacked finishing touches. 






Thai temple. 

Wat Thai Temple at Sarnath. A Guest House/ Temple built by Thai Government in their own style of architecture for their use of Thai nationals coming to visit Sarnath .

Almost all the countrues where large population is following Buddhism have established Buddhist temples and guest houses in their own architectural style  for their use of its nationals coming to visit Sarnath . Almost all such places are located on the street of statue of Giant Buddha.Called Roshpattan Road.



Tibetian Temple.
       
Temple of Tibetian Communityin Sarnath. The peaceful and traditional Tibetan Buddhist Monastery is a lovely, bright space located close to the main market area in Sarnath. It was constructed in 1955 and is maintained by the Lhadhan Chotrul Monlam Chenmo Trust and has glass display cases filled with miniature buddhas.The very sight of the Tibetan Monastery on the main road is exciting—two lions guard the very colourful and beautifully-designed entrance. Inside the large and open compound is a light pink stupa as a remembrance and gratitude by the Tibetans to the government of India for granting asylum to the fleeing Dalai Lama. It also denotes to pay tribute to all those who died in Tibet’s freedom struggle and those who continue to suffer oppression in Tibet.The door of the monastery is painted in bright red and the walls are surrounded with beautiful frescoes of Buddhist deities. Inside, the central image is a colossal Sakyamuni, another form of Buddha. Sometimes it is possible for visitors to stay overnight at the Tibetan Monastery by paying a small donation; they have many rooms. 
Source : https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/travel/sarnath/tibetan-buddhist-monastery/
Dhamek Stupa.

The Dhamek Stupa is said to mark the spot where the Buddha gave the first sermon to his first five brahmin disciples after attaining enlightenment,"revealing his Eightfold Path leading to nirvana". The stupa was enlarged on six occasions but the upper part is still unfinished. While visiting Sarnath in 640 CE, Xuanzang recorded that the colony had over 1,500 priests and the main stupa was nearly 300 feet (91 m) high.
In its current shape, the stupa is a solid cylinder of bricks and stone reaching a height of 43.6 meters and having a diameter of 28 meters. It is the most massive structure in Sarnath. The basement seems to have survived from Ashoka's structure: the stone facing is chiseled and displays delicate floral carvings of Gupta origin. The wall is covered with exquisitely carved figures of humans and birds, as well as inscriptions in the Brāhmī script.
Mulgandha Kuti 

Situated near the main chowk of Sarnath, where the roads divides, the Mulagandha Kuti Vihar monastery was built in 1931 with donations from various countries and the international Buddhist community. There are spires on top of the huge building that make it seem like a church. The Vihara is enshrined with the sacred relics of Sakyamuni Buddha. It is open from sunrise to sunset and entry is free.  
It was built by Angarika Dharmapala, who was the founder of Mahabodhi society and is still maintained and run by the Mahabodhi Society. The building itself is very pretty and the Mulagandha Kuti Vihar has become one of Sarnath’s greatest attractions for tourists. It is said that the consecration drew devotees from all over the world to witness and seek blessings.The entrance foyer is decorated by a huge bell that was gifted by Japan and the interior houses a golden statue of the Buddha on a marble platform. The insides are completely dominated by fresco-covered walls depicting scenes from Buddha’s life and are made by Japanese artist Kosetsu Nosu and are said to have been completed in 1936. The frescoes are an excellent source of knowledge if someone is interested in knowing more about life of the Buddha right from his birth to the attainment of Mahaparinirvana.
Source: https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/travel/sarnath/mulagandha-kuti-vihar

Last Place we saw in Sarnath. After this we returned to Officers maess at Varanasi.