06 March 2003

NAGPUR - DELHI TRIP

This MA- PHO- OGRAPH  Screen shot gives complete Nagpur - Delhi Trip.

This is a screen shot of that map.It shows complete Trip done ​between 21 Feb 03 to 03 Mar 03 Unfortunately it does not open by clicking on it nor is it an interactive one . To open interactive 
MA- PHO- OGRAPH (Google Map with Photographs) GO HERE
Route in detail : Nagpur-Bhojpur-Bhopal-Vidisha-Gyaraspur-Sagar-Chhatarpur Khajuraho- Orcha-Jhans-Datia- Gwalior- mathura- Delhi,Palam Vihar.
Night halts at : Bhopal, Sagar, Khajuraho, Gwalior and Mathura.
For photos go to Album 25 GO HERE
Nagpur -Delhi .

Ajeet had shifted to a house in Palam Vihar. Now I do not remember if there was any particular reason or not, but we decided to visit him. Also engagement ceremony of Padmnabh was being held on 22 Feb 03. at Bhopal. Decided to attend it.then carry on for Delhi, As usual decided to go via circuiteous route visiting as many places of tourist attraction as possible. 
Route include,  places of historical importance : Gwalior, Jhansi, Mathura,  World Heritage sites  Khajuraho,BimBetka, 
Places with Archiological monumants, Bhojpur, Udaygiri, Gyaraspur,Orcha and Datia.Started at 0619 0n 21. 
Onteh way saw a nice irrigation canal withh clean water flowwing . As it was approachigg breakfast time had breakfast   
                                            


Rachana's brother Nischay was posted in Itarsi. decided to drop in. Nischay was not at home but Mrs was there she was a good hostess.

BHIM BETKA

Started for Bhopal On the way by roadside saw a sign board . Then declaration of Bhim Betka as a World Heritage site was still in distant future. Followed the road to Roch shelters.
      
           
                 Roadside signboard.                 B B Cave                        Turtle Rock B B

A gentelman was available, most probably a caretaker also doubling as a guide. He took us around along with other information about rock shelters also informed us that some time back Rajeev Gandhi , the then PM had visited the place. Must have been the reason that is was quite clean. Enjoyed going aroud shelters. Best part was the fantastic roch paintings datinh back thousands of years.

.     Rock paintings of Bhimbetka.    

BHOJPUR   

      
Bhojpur first view.
  
The guide at Bhim Betka told us that there was ruin of a huge ancient temple at Bhojpur which was worth visiting. Also that it was almost on the way to Bhopal so not much of a diversion. We decided to visit. After Bhim Betka headed for Bhojpur,  Seeing the site, the huge size of the walls, the columns, beautifully engraved and ready to be installed numerous panels of statues which were just stood against the ruined walls and more than anything else, the gigantic size of the shivlinga convinced us that indeed it if rest of the structure was to match it, the temple it would have been  one of the great temples, as good as any other temple of the same era as good as Brihideshwara Temple 
   
The lingam in the sanctum rises to an awe inspiring height of 7.5 feet with a circumference of 17.8 feet. Set upon a massive platform 21.5 feet square  

It will be worthwhile reading info from  MP Tourism site and wiki
Reached Bhopal by 1645. Next day, 22nd attended saknarpuda of Padmnabh. Relaxed on 23rd,
,spent time with Nana Saheb & Mangal. Started for Sanchi on 24 Feb 03.

SANCHI.     
        
you still want a caption  :-)

Huge central Stupa is the main attraction of World Heritage site  Buddhist Monuments of Sanchi. Even today it stands largely restored. The stupa, along with Northern and Eastern gates, always figured in or on the cover of text books of quite a few standards of school up to high school. Even in one of 6 or 7 standard one of the gates was on the cover of one of the text books. Seeing them for real brought back childhood memories flooding back. 
There are remains of temples, monasteriesAsoka pillars

                             
      Asokan Pillar                            Northern Gate.                           The Monestry.

Eastern Gate of Stupa No 1, The Main Stupa, All the gates ave sculptures depicting events from Buddha's life.

UDAY GIRI CAVES.

Thanks to star in our TTK map we knew Udaygiri and Gyaraspur had some tourist attractions, also they were close to our route to Vidasha. So we went there. Close to where we had parked saw board saying Udaygiri caves Close by was a room dug in the cave used as living quartes by ascetics. Further up saw a huge magnificant sculpture of Varah Avatar. Did not see any thing further up  and left for Gyaraspur.. 

                         
Uday Giri caves.

Incarnation of Varaha Avatar.
Varah rescuing the earth symbolically represented by Bhudevi clinging to the boar's tusk. All the Gods including Vishnu and Samudra paying respects to Varava.

Unfortunately the booklet did not give any details about the site. Noe we know that there are 20 caves one dedicated to Jainism and others to Hinduism of around 401 t0 425 CE. Udaigiri caves are considered a major and important Archaeological sites in India.So missed seeing few good things set course for Vidisha,

VIDISHA.

Bija Mandal or Vijay mandir, Vidisha. 


At the site indicated,  We saw ruins of massive dimensions which reminded us of many many great and beautiful magnificent temples all over India. known as Bija Mandal. As per information on the board there
For quite some time the site was a Mosque where regular .only recent research revealed that till very recently the site which was used as a regular Mosque and holding namaj was actually a Hindu temple known as Bija Mandal or Vijaymandir. It was destroyed and demolished by Mogul Emperor  Aurangzeb. Lot of demolished structure was used to build a Mosque. Idols and other structures bearing Hindu relics were buried on the Northern side of the mosque.Torrential rains in 1991 washed away the mud mound and exposed proof of the presence of A temple existed where now a mosque stood .Today there are only ruins  with no traces of a temple or a mosque. 

Museum near ruins of Bija Mandal.


After spending some time left for Gyaraspur.


GYARASPUR.

Vajramath Temple Gyaraspur

Gyaraspur is typical Indian village aspiring to become a city. Locals seemed to be quite used to see arrival of tourists on a regular basis. Seeing approach of our car someone would point in a direction. Sure enough following the finger we did reach some very good archaeological finds. Considering the beauty quality,  richness and exquisite craftsmanship  of carvings it was apparent that to have such treasures in the past  must have been place of importance.
 First saw Char Khamba , then Aath Khamba and Hindola Toran. All with exquisite craftsmanship

Char Khamba - Four Pillars.
Beautifully carved pillars apparently gate structure, 

Aath Khamba - Eight Pillars.
Appear to be part of a bigger structure like a mandap.

Maladevi Temple, Gyaraspur. 
A grand structure.

 Maladevi Temple is out of town on the slope of a steep hill. Temple stands on a platform dug out fo the hillside., It is quite huge and grand structure. Must have looked very beautiful with all the alcoves and balconies. Now of course It has succumbed to the age and onslaught of weather. Somehow Archaeologically department also seem to neglect is as it lacks any signs of renovation or efforts at renovation.                                                                                                                                                            
                                                                                 Vajramath Temple

In much better condition.

For Vajramath Temple we had to head back towards town. Vajramath Temple is situated on the southern border of Gyaraspur. In size and grandness it was as good as Maladevi temple. But in every other respect it it seemed in better condition.Even the sculptures appeared better and more beautiful. 
From Vajramath Tmple we set course for Sagar where we had planned to stay.

                                                                                       SAGAR.
 In Sagar we stayed at 25 MP BTN(girls) NCC Mess.Sagar., Next morning. We started for Khajuraho

KHAJURAHO 

While in Bhopl, Courtesy a chance encounter with a retired Chief Forest Conservation Officer,MP, we had got good accommodation, even without reservation,during Annual Dance Festival at Khajuraho. His influence was such that on 26th morning a Forest guard and a department jeep reported to take us for taking us to Raneh Falls and Ken Ghariyal sanctuary. 

                                                      
                                       Forest Guest House,Khajuraho.                        Morning in the lawn. 

Started from Sagar 0630. Reached Forest Guest house by 1140. Freshne up and went to see world famous Group of Temple Monuments of Khajuraho 

Group of Temple Monuments of Khajuraho   

View of Western ( Main ) Group of Temples ,Viewed from the terrace of hotel across the road.

Knew about Khajuraho,since some elder friend quietly introduced me to the photos of erotic sculptures of Khajuraho. As grew up, access to such material increased. Got impression that in Khajuraho any and every building or Temple walls were nothing but erotic sculptures. One would trip over them at every step.
Finally we were in Khajuraho ! Did find the sculptures.Had grown up seeing on the quite. They are only at one place.On a 8-9 odd feet of plinth on the southern wall of Lakshman temple.
Felt sorry at having grown up NOT knowing about the beauty , the grandeur and the magnificence ot the Temple monuments of Khajuraho. 

        
                            
  World Heritage Monument.              The Varaha . 9 feet tall.                World Heritage Monument.  

From wiki
The Khajuraho Group of Monuments are one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in India. The temples are famous for their nagara-style architectural symbolism and their erotic sculptures.
Most Khajuraho temples were built between 950 and 1050 by the Chandela Rajput dynasty  Historical records note that the Khajuraho temple site had 85 temples by the 12th century, spread over 20 square kilometers Of these, only about 25 temples have survived, spread over 6 square kilometers. 
KANDARIYA MAHADEV TEMPLE.
The largest and most magnificent temple in Khajuraho.   
The Kandariya Mahadeva Temple is decorated with a profusion of sculptures,  as many as 870. 90% of  arts depict various aspects the everyday life, mythical stories as well as symbolic display of various secular and spiritual values important in Hindu tradition. Some 10% carvings contain sexual themes and various sexual poses. with intricate details, symbolism and expressiveness of ancient Indian art. The Khajuraho group of temples were built together but were dedicated to two religions, Hinduism and Jainism, suggesting a tradition of acceptance and respect for diverse religious views among Hindus and Jains in the region.
  
              Kandaria Mahadev temple.                            Kandariya Mahadev temple. 
LAKSHMAN TEMPLE.   
Lakshman Temple view from Matengeshwar Temple.
Lakshman temple is the second in size only to Kandariya Temple. Though had rushed through the temples this was the only tmple we saw erotiv sculptures , may be because they were at our eye level.
                     
All three photos Lakshman Temple southern side. Simply magnificient.

MATANGESYWAR 
               
                         
Matangeshwar, only LIVE temple at Khajuraho.                                    Shiv Ling at Matangeshwar 
Matengeshwar is next to Lahshman Temple . This is the only temple in Khajuraho were regurar puja and other religious ceremonies like prayers etc are performed. 
After this we went of to see the Jain temples. To be truthful and frank we should have spent more time there. If onr wants to really all the temples and enjoy the beauty and observe the sculpture just few hours are woe fully insufficient.. Say a miimum couple of days would do justice. 

JAIN TEMPLES.
 At Khajuraho the Jains apparently lived on the east side of town. A number of Jain temples from that period have survived in this part of Khajuraho in various states of preservation. These form Eastern Group of temples. Many Jain inscriptions from the Chandela period can be seen there All the Jain temples are now enclosed within a compound wall constructed in early 10-11th century, with the exception of the Ghantai temple. These temple are part of UNESCO World Heritage Site along with other temples in Khajuraho Group of Monuments

 
                                                       Parshvanatha temple, Khajuraho  
Parshvanatha temple is a 10th-century Jain temple at Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh, India. It is now dedicated to Parshvanatha, although it was probably built as an Adinatha shrine during the Chandela period. Despite the temple's Jain affiliation, its exterior walls feature Vaishnavaite theme .
By this time ir was prety late . Returned to Forest Guest House, 
Next day a forest guard presented himself in the morning with a jeep  After breakfast got in the jeep. As the forest guard was with us he took us cross country through the forest trails. He said we may see some animals. Unfortunately we spotted only couple of Neelgais and nothing else .

Couple of Neel Gais . Blue Bulls..

 First went to  Ken Gharial Sanctuary 

Ken Ghariyal Park . Ken river .We did not see any .
Reached banks of Ken river which at that spot was flowing through a deep gorge.There was a sandy beach . As per the guard ghariyals came on that sandy patch for sunning. That particular day they did not turn up. For details about Ken Gharial http://www.khajuraho-india.org/khajuraho-tourist-attractions/ken-gharial-sanctuary.html    
From there we went to see Raneh Falls. 
RANEH FALLS.
Ranneh Falls
From : http://www.khajuraho-india.org/khajuraho-tourist-attractions/raneh-fall.html 
The raneh water falls lies 20 kilometers east of Khajuraho, easily accessible by car ( if you are up to it, by bicycle). The road leads into a wooded area which opens out to the vast expanse of the ken river. Gigantic sandstone boulders along the Ken river make this a perfect picnic and sun-bathing spot. For the bird - watcher this is also an opportunity to study water fowl inn their natural beside the river.
Aling a marked pathway you can follow the Ken river as it plunges down gorges. The pink sandstone boulders, sculpted by the water over the centuries, glow like burnished metal in the fading light of the setting sun.

Ken Gharial and Raneh falls are located about 15 to 16 KMs East of the Khajuraho temples. On the way passed right next to Southern Group of Temples.

SOUTHERN GROUP OF TEMPLES.   

From : http://www.khajuraho.ind.in/southern-group-of-temples.html
Khajuraho's Southern Group consists of three widely separated temples. The Duladeo temple or "Kunwar Math" can be approached from the Jain temples in the eastern group of temples in Khajuraho. Chaturbhuj temple is disproportionately tall with its shikhara far above the tree line. The third temple of the Southern group of temples of Khajuraho the Beejamandal temple is still under excavation undertaken by ASI. We saw only Chaturbhuj temple.

CHATURBHUJ TEMPLE.
Chaturbhuj Temple.
Chaturbhuj temple is dedicated to Vishnu in his ascetic form. The only temple in Khajuraho devoid of any erotic carvings or sculptures Chaturbguj temple is one of the major temples of the southern group of temples in Khajuraho. The Chaturbhuj temple houses an exquisite image of a nine feet long statue of four-handed Vishnu. 


Chaturbhuj Vishnu idol, OPS finger trouble.


After Chaturbhuj Temple while returning to the Forest guest House . The Guard took us to State Museum of Tribal Art. 

STATE MUSEUM OF TRIBAL ART.

      ,        
At State Museum of Tribal Folk Art, Khajuraho

State Museum of Tribal and Folk Art is located within Chandela Cultural Complex in Khajuraho. The museum displays Indian tradition and culture, its fusion with foreign cultures, which came into existence through trade and incursion. Housing the rich collection of tribal and folk art and artefacts, the museum offers a brief history of custom and rituals of the tribal people.
Galleries of the museum display more that 500 representative items of terracotta, wood crafts, jewellery, tribal and folk paintings, masks, tattoos and metal crafts. Apart from this, the museum also exhibits evolution of various forms, styles and designs that have transformed and evolved over passed centuries. 

KHAJURAHO DANCE FESTIVAL.
We were in Khajuraho for two nights . Attrnded the festival on both nights. 
First Nhght.
​In the evening went to see the Annual dance Festival. We had bought tickets of Re 100/- , a princily sum then.​ ​It was the first day of the festival. Some Minister was coming for inaugration. Lot of front row seats were occupied by govt officials. There was sprinkling of foreigners.Re 1000/- and 500/-​ seats​ were sparsly occupied . Few more in 100/ ​That is ​where we were.
Performers in the fastival were world class,deligent search revealed some of the performances were by Malvika Sarkar, Swapna Sundari,Kiran Segal to name a few. 
​Second Night. 
At night again went to see the Dance Festival​. This day there were almost nil attendence . ₹ 1000 seats had 3-4 people . ₹500/- may 10 odd . ₹100 about 40 odd.All the rest of the seats were empty.
Realised that all the crowd of the previous day were forced attendees govt officials, as a minister was coming and their non paying freeloading families. 
Felt sad for the artists on such poor attendemce on the seond day. In fact it looked so bad that even organisers must have felt ashamed as after about 15 mts or so, on PA system  they reuested all the people in ₹ 100 and ₹ 500 seats to move uo to ₹ 1000 seats.,so that at least front seats would be occupied. ​ 
What shame.
A review of 2003 festival can be found here http://www.narthaki.com/info/reviews/rev104.html. 

From Wiki.
Khajuraho Dance Festival, organised by the Madhya Pradesh Kala Parishad, is a one-week festival of classical dances held annually against the spectacular backdrop of the magnificently lit Khajuraho temples. This cultural festival highlights the richness of the Indian classical dance styles such as Kathak, Bharathanatyam, Odissi, Kuchipudi, Manipuri, and Kathakali with performances of some of the best exponents in the field. Modern Indian dance has been added recently.
The dances are performed in an open-air auditorium, usually in front of the Chitragupta Temple dedicated to Surya (the Sun God) and the Vishvanatha Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, belonging to the western group.​ ​The festival features dance performances by artists of world fame​.​
NEAXT DAY SET COURSE FOR ORCHA AND JHANSI.  
DUBELA.    
              
       Museum sign board.                             Fort ruins in Dhubela,                     We found it closed. Disappointed .

A star was marked at a place called Dhubela. looked to be a small village. Turned off the highway to go to Mahraja Chhatrasal Museum, the place of attraction.  

On reaching there found that the gate was licked. On checking with an attendant whom we spotted , were informed that the Museum would not open till 1000. As we could ill afford to wait for more than an hour we took some photos. In the end were badly disappointed and left for Orcha.

ORCHA

Orchha is a town on the banks of Betwa river. The medieval city of Orchha seems to have frozen in time, its palaces and temples still retaining their original grandeur. Orchha had the distinction of being the capital of one of the largest and most powerful kingdoms of Central India. The Bundela Rajput chieftain, Rudra Pratap, founded the city, located by the side of the beautiful Betwa River, in the 16th century. The word Orchha means 'hidden'. When the Tughlaqs, who were ruling Delhi in the 15th century, pushed the Bundelkhand rajas out of Garkhundar, they retreated to distant Orchha.
Of quite a lot of places of tourist interest we only saw 1,Jahangir Maahal.. Chaturbhuj temple , and 3. Chhatris.
Sources:
https://wikitravel.org/en/Orchha,http://www.mptourism.com/tourist-places/orchha-tourism.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orchha  
JAHANGIR MAHAL  

Old Fountains in courtyard of Jahangir Mahal Orcha.
                    
               Jahangr mahal.                                           Jahangr mahal.                         One of the inner rooms

As we entered the town saw a huge palatial building from far . Headed for it Sign boards infromed​ ​us that it was Jahangir Mahal. Guides are hanging around and on seeing our car , one of them detached himself from the crowd and offered his services . Showed us a cyclostyled rate list as fixed by Archaeological Society of India. He showed us around . The Mahal was built in honour of the visit of Jahangir to Orcha. Even in is ruined and disfigured walls,devoid of proper paint it looked beautiful. One had only to close ones eyes and imagine the beauty of that building in its hay day. Even the interior of rooms were beautiful. Lot of soot marks on the walls of the rooms . Guide told us that when refugees were accommodated in these building,​ ​families cooked their food. Soot marks were caused by cooking fires.
Interesting info and read:
http://www.madhya-pradesh-tourism.com/heritage/palaces/jahangir-mahal-orchha.html
https://www.indianholiday.com/tourist-attraction/orchha/palaces-in-orchha/jehangir-mahal.html


CHHATRIES OF ORCHA.

The Chhatries.
Riverside cenotaphs: On the southern bank (Kanchan ghat) of river Betwa, 15 cenotaphs are located belonging to Bundela kings & members of their clan. These include the Chhatries of Madhukar shah, Vir Singh Deo, Jaswant Singh, Udait Singh, Pahar Singh & Others. 
Designed in panchayatna (five projections) style, peak of the sanctum is patterened in Nagar (Indo Aryan) style of temple archietecture. Most of the structures are three storyed. All the chambers on four corners have dome shaped tops surrounded by small cenotaphs resting on columns. Though most of them are in a dilapidated condition but a few are well preserved condition but afew are well preserved. One of the cenotaph has a well executed carved marble statue of Madhukar Shah.

CHATRABHUJ TEMPLE.

Charbhuj Temple

                                       



View of Orcha from Chatarbhuj Temple.                                              Corridor. Chatarbhuj Temple.

The temple was originally built to deify an image of Rama, as the chief deity, which however was installed in the Rama Raja Temple inside the Orchha Fort complex. At present an image of Radha Krishna is worshiped in the temple.  Built upon a massive stone platform & reached by a steep flight of steps, the Chaturbhuj temple dominates the landscape of Orchha & is the largest temple there.     
According to a local legend, the temple was built after the queen had a "dream visitation" by Lord Rama directing her to build a temple for Him; while Madhukar Shah was a devotee of Krishna, his wife's dedication was to Rama. Following the approval to build the Chaturbhuja Temple, the queen went to Ayodhya to obtain an image of Lord Rama that was to be enshrined in her new temple. When she came back from Ayodhya with the image of Rama, initially she kept the idol in her palace, called Rani Mahal, as the Chaturbhuj Temple was still under construction. She was, however, unaware of an injunction that the image to be deified in a temple could not be kept in a palace. Once the temple construction was completed and the idol of the lord had to be moved for installation at the Chatrubhuj Temple, it refused to be shifted from the palace. Hence, instead of the Chaturbuj temple, the Rama's idol remained in the palace whereas the Chaturbhuj Temple remained without an idol in its sanctum. As Rama was worshiped in the palace it was converted into the Ram Raja Temple; it is the only shrine in the country where Rama is worshiped as a king.
The management of the temple on a day-to-day basis is the responsibility of the Ram Raja Trust However, the conservation of the temple structure itself is under the control of the State Archaeology Department.
Sources:http://www.madhya-pradesh-tourism.com/tourist-attractions/orchha-tourism.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaturbhuj_Temple_(Orchha).
THERE AFTRE LEFT ORCHA FOR JHANSI.


JHANSI

Water tank built 1896 , Jhansi Fort.

Reached Jhansi around 1600. Located located Crops A Officers Mess. Were accommodated in 'Parischa.
Next morning left mess after breakfast around 0900. Saw Rani Mahal and Fort. Car diary shows that we had finished both the places by 1100 and set course for Gwalior. In retrospect and with hindsight, now feel that for its historical importance and in honour of Rani of Jhansi we should have spent more time at the Fort and other places associated past glory of Jhansi. That said, I strongly feel we covered all essential and photo spots of Jhansi. Water tank built in 1896, photo above is a good example.

                      
     Rani Mahal                                  Fountains in coruyard.             Paintings in side the rooms.

Rani Mahal is bang in the middle of town. From the looks, regular and periodic maintenance has been done over period of time as walls are intact. Fountains, though were not functioning when we saw, structure itself looked ok. Though walls outside the rooms were painted drab standard PWD govt yellow, inside the rooms there were lavish, extravagant and beautifull paintings covering wall to wall and complete ceiling. Though the the paintings were faded with age, even to day were eye catching and appealing. Must have looked fantastic in the good old days of Rani. 
For more information  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rani_Mahal .In my openion a better and more detailed info is at following site. Copy/Paste function disabled here. http://www.jhansionline.in/city-guide/rani-mahal-in-jhans 

                                           
                               Etrrance gate Jhansi Fort.                                   "Kadak Bijlee' Cannon on Jhansi Fort.

                  
     Ganesh Mandir, Jhansi fort.                       Sopt from where Rani, jumped                 Another gate in Fort.
Jhansi Fort is very imposing vast structure. Many parts are in ruins, many totally obliterated. Effort has been made to preserve and maintain what remains. Ganesh mandir, Water tank built in 1896 still looks impressive. Kadak Bijlee,Lightning Thunder , cannon which palyed it part in mutiny of 1857 are all in fair state. 

More Info at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jhansi_Fort and at http://www.jhansionline.in/city-guide/jhansi-fort
After Rani Mahal and  going around the fort set course for Gwalior by 1100.


DATIA.

Bir Singh Palace. Datia.

Left Jhansi and Jhansi Fort at 1100 and set course for Gwalior. On the way saw a very imposing building. Could not resist temptation to look at it. It was Bir Singh Palace iv village Datia.

Bir Singh Palace.

As per wiki.
Datia Palace, also known as Bir Singh Palace or Bir Singh Dev Palace is special, it has 7 floors. This Datia Palace or the Satkhanda Palace is also called Datia Mahal. This Palace was made by spending 35 Lakh Rupees (78 thousand us dollars) and it took nine years to build it. It is situated on an isolated rock on the western side of the city Datia. It represents Mughal architecture along with Rajput architecture. It is the biggest and most famous of all the 52 palaces build by Raja birsingh Deo and it can be seen easily from a long distance.
 However neither member from the royal family did ever lived here. The founder of the Datia State in Bundelkhand - Maharaj Birsingh Deo Build many such 52 monuments all around the Country India. Datia's Palace as well as the Purana Mahal or the "Old palace", Historian Abdul Hamid Lahori came to this city with Shahan Jahan on 19 November 1635. He said that the palace was nearly 80 meters long and was also this much broad. He said this as a very beautiful and strong palace.
Spent one hour from 1130 to 1230 here and then again started for Gwalior.

GWALIOR. 

Residency Air Force Officers Mess Gwalior.

Reached this place by 1630. A bit about how we came to be here;
I had spoken to AOC,Gwalior for accommodation. The same was confirmed. Assuming that mess would be located in AF Station ,on reaching Gwalior we went to Maharajpur. There came to know that the Mess where our accommodation was arranged was right in the heart of town and called Residency Mes. Buildig was constructed by Gwalior Maharajah as residence for the British Governor and calld Residency. A grand Palatial building . A unique experience. The photos give some idea of the grandeur but in reality it is very grand, magnificent and beautiful. 

         
            On the roof.              Even the lighting fixture-exquisite              The Mess 

GWALIOR FORT.

Gwalior Fort
Freshened up and left for Gwalior to see Light and Sound show at Gwalior fort. We were to transpise on this road quite a few times in next couple of days. 
Venue for Light and Sound show.
The light and sound show was quitr nice . The voice over for the show was by   Amitabh Bachhan.
Returned to Mess by 2230 
 

Gwalior Fort unique feature of the fort is th blue tiles.

Nex morning returned to have a look at the rest of the fort.
Fort covers a vast area and one has to cover lot of ground to see important land marks which can be devided in catagories of Monumets, temples and Places etc. All of which are quite few in nunber.We saw, Man Mindir Palace, Sasbhau Ka mandir, Teli Ka Mandir, Suraj Kund nad Gujar Mahl fro way above from Jahangir mahal.
MAN MANDIR PALACE. 

     
                 
Man Mandir Two Views.
From wieki:
Man mandir palace was built by the King of Tomar Dynasty - Maharaja Man Singh in 15th century for his favorite queen, Mrignayani. Man Mandir is often referred as a Painted Palace because the painted effect of the Man Mandir Palace is due to the use of styled tiles of turquoise, green and yellow used extensively in a geometric pattern.
We had gone around olnly in outer court yard. Dis not see any tiles.

SAS BHAU KA MANDIR.  

The twin temple,is called Sasbahu temple. Unfortunately no photo of Twin temple.The word Sasbahu means  "a mother and daughter-in-law", an association that implies their being together and interdependent. The Sas temple is typically the larger older temple of the twin. The Gwalior Sasbahu temple follows this style, but both temples are dedicated to Vishnu. Only the Sas temple has survived in some form, the Bahu temple is a shell structure of the original one storey with a highly ornate door frame and its defaced wall reliefs surviving.The remnants of the Bahu temple at Gwalior suggest that it may have been a smaller version of the Saas temple.
The temple main entrance porch has four carved Ruchaka ghatapallava-style pillars that are load-bearing. The walls and lintels are intricately carved, though much defaced. On the lintel of the entrances, friezes of Krishna-leela scenes are carved inside, while the outer side narrate legends from other Hindu texts. Above the lintel is Garuda, the vanaha of Vishnu.
TELI KA MANDIR.

From Wiki and other sites.
Teli Ka Mandir (Telangana Mandir) - A structure of about 100 feet, Teli Ka Mandir in Gwalior Fort distinguishes itself from the other compositions of its time because of its unique architecture. Though the roof of the temple holds a Dravidian look, the sculptures are typically North Indian. The temple bears a close resemblance to the temple of Prathihara Vishnu, and is filled with images of coiled serpents, passionate couples, river goddesses, and a flying Garuda. The temple architecture follows the Indo-Aryan and Nagara styles that exhibit superior artistic calibre. A marvelous temple, believed to be among the oldest constructions in the fort, gives an enchanting experience to the visitor. The Telikā Mandir is the loftiest temple among all the buildings in Gwalior Fort with a height of about 30m. Most striking feature of the temple is the wagon-vaulted roof, a form used over rectangular shrines which normally accommodated a row of Mother Goddesses. All the goddesses from the interior vanished centuries ago. The exterior walls of the temple are richly decorated with sculptures, many of which are damaged; the niches, shaped like temples, are empty. Some more photos from Gwalior Fort.

        
 
                                          
     Gujari Mahal Seen from Jahangir Palace                      Panoramic view of Gwalior from Fort.


      
               Less Frequented part of Fort.                               Suraj Kund.Gwaliot Fort

SAMADHI OF RANI LAKSHMI BAI.

 Samadhi and a magnificent Equestrian Statue of Rani of Jhansi.  

During our stay in Gwalior, to got to the city for sight seeing,every time we had to drive on Rani Laxmi Bai Marg in . Later when we decided to visit the Samadhi of Rani Laxmi Bai .we had to ask people for directions. Eventually when we did reach it we found that we had passed the sopt many times. Sadly It was not prominant and not proprely sign posted.
There is Samadhi and a magnificient Equestrian Statue of Rani of Jhansi.
From : https://www.mapsofindia.com/on-this-day/june-18-1858
Lakshmibai’s tomb is in the Phool Bagh area of Gwalior. She continues to remain an inspiration to generations of Indians and is remembered for her fearlessness and determination. Even British officer Hugh Rose who had wanted to annex Jhansi described Lakshmibai as “clever and beautiful” and as the “most dangerous of all Indian leaders.” 
A very informative description about Death of Rani of Jhansi is given in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rani_of_Jhansi

TOMB OF TANSEN.
Tansen Samadhi.

The father of Hindustani classical music and one of the nine jewels of Akbar's court, legendary singer Tansen is buried in Gwalior. Built in the early style of Mughal architecture, the tomb of Tansen has a simple and pristine aura about it. The headstone is surrounded by beautiful gardens on all its sides. Apart from being an ancient monument, the site also underlines the rich cultural heritage of Gwalior. Every year in the month of November/ December, a national level music competition is held at the place, to venerate this great musician. 
Source : http://www.tourism4india.in/Gwalior/Spots/Tomb-of-Tansen.aspx
 
Returned to Mess.
Naxt day on 02 Mar03 booked out of the Maess for Jaivilas Palace. From where we would set course for Mathura.
JAIVILAS PALACE.

 Entrance Jaivilas Palace,
Went around Jaivilas Palace looking at mavrvalous item on diaplayTook total of 9 photos : 1. Cannon on the way to Jaivilas Palace ,Gwalior. 2. Jai Vilas Palace. 3. The gate to His Highnes Sir Jivajirao Scindia Museum.4. Somewhere inside Jai Vilas Palace. This huge carpet has life like portraits sketche of real historical personalities of historical Times. 5. Crystal Fountain .Jai Vilas Palace.6. Meals serving Sterling Silver Train , Jal Vihar Palace. 7. Two Ton Chandeliers, Jai Vilas Palace. 8. Sterling Silver Idols Jai Vilas Palace. 9. Italian Chandeliers , Jai Vilas Palace.  and felt that was enough. We spent only one hour and 30 minutes at this fabulous place where I think one needs a minimum of a day and a half to do justice to the feast for the eyes and asthestic senses.
Our fault. Never mended.
From Wiki 
he Jai Vilas Mahal , also known as the Jai Vilas Palacewas built in 1874 by Jayajirao Scindia, the Maharaja of Gwalior and is still the residence of his descendants the former royal Maratha Scindia dynasty.
It is a fine example of European architecture, designed and built by Sir Michael Filose. A combination of architectural styles, the first storey is Tuscan, the second Italian-Doric and the third Corinthian. The area of the Jai Vilas palace is 1,240,771 square feet and it is particularly famous for its large Durbar Hall. The interior of the Durbar Hall is decorated with gilt and gold furnishings and adorned with a huge carpet and gigantic chandeliers. It is 100 feet long, 50 feet wide and 41 feet in height.
Supposedly, eight elephants were suspended from the durbar (royal court) hall ceiling to check it could cope with two 12.5m-high, 3.5-tonne chandeliers with 250 light bulbs, said to be the largest pair in the world.
Bizarre items fill the rooms: cut-glass furniture, stuffed tigers and a ladies-only swimming pool with its own boat. The cavernous dining room displays the pièce de résistance, a model railway with a silver train that carried after-dinner brandy and cigars around the table.
Another very good place for information on JaiVilas Palce Museum is :
Photos of Jaivilas Palace. 

           
                 Kirman Masha'ir Carpet.                     Brandy,Cigar serving Sterling Silver Train.

        
       
   
3.5 Ton chandeliers in Darbar hall.
I would love to give detailed information about these photos but it would lead only to lengthy duplications as the same information is available in this very blog. The information is available along side each photo at the Album GO HERE.

        
       Crystal Fountain.                      Sterling Silver idols.                       Italian Chandelier.

So as said earlier, after spending hour and half at Jaivilas Palace , WE SET COURSE FOR MATHURA.

MATHURA.

From jaivilas Palace set course for Mathura by 1100.  After Morena passed the chamble revines.The area was infested by decoits. They knew the revines like back of their hand and so could give slip to police posse any time they wanted. Deoits were dreaded so much, at one time even duting day time no single transport or vehicle woud go through it. They always travelled in group thruogh the revines.
In 2003 things ewre different, we not only passed through on our own but even stopped for photos. 
Passed through Agra Bypess betwen 1330 and 1345. Had lunch 1455 - 1530. Reached 1 Corps Mess, Mthura by 1645. Called it a day.
3 Mar 03 was bright and clear day . First palce to be visited was Vishram Ghat.

VISHRAM GHAT.

       
                                                                            All Three photos . Vishram Ghat.
Vishram Ghat is a sacred bathing ghat situated on the banks of river Yamuna in Mathura.
Vishram Ghat is the main ghat of Mathura and is central to 25 other ghats. The ghat is made up of marble stone and has a large stone arch. According to the legend, Lord Krishna is said to have rested at this place after killing Kansa. The name of the ghat is derived from this particular incidence (Vishram means Rest). Foe more detais go to : https://www.trawell.in/uttar-pradesh/mathura/sri-krishna-janmabhoomi-temple   

DWARKADISH TEMPLE.

Dwarkadheesh Temple is one of the oldest and largest temples in Mathura. It is located near  Vishram Ghat and Gatashram Tila. It is one of the top places to visit in Mathura and also one of the most visited Mathura temples.
The main deity of the temple is Lord Dwarkadheesh, a form of Lord Krishna. This temple is also famous by other names like Jagat Mandir or Nija Mandir. It is believed that this temple was built by Lord Krishna's grandson Vajranabha. The present temple was built by Seth Gokuldas Parikh, the treasurer of Gwalior State in 1814. He was a great devotee of Lord Krishna and erected the shrine to commemorate the deity.
The temple is known for its beautiful architecture, carvings, and paintings. This five storied building is supported by seventy two pillars. The main shrine has the images of Lord Krishna and his beloved Radha. The idol of Lord Dwarkadheesh is made from shiny black stone and it is about 2.25 feet in height. This idol has four hands carrying a mace, a Sudarshana Chakra, a conch and a lotus flower. Apart from the image of Radha-Krishna, the shrine also has images of other Hindu gods. Presently, the temple is managed by the followers of Vallabhacharya sect. The temples of Krishna Varaha and Shwet Varaha are also nearby.
Festivals like Holi, Janmashtami and Diwali are celebrated with lot of pomp and grandeur in the temple. During these occasions thousands of tourists visit the temple.
Source : https://www.trawell.in/uttar-pradesh/mathura/sri-krishna-janmabhoomi-temple  
After Dwarka dish Temple we proceeded for Shrikrishna Janmbhumi.

SHRIKRISHNA JANMBHUMI 
      
      
                                           All three photos Shrikrishnam Bhumi. 

Sri Krishna Janmabhoomi is the most famous temple located in the crowded city of Mathura and is the most important site for the followers of Lord Krishna and Hindus as a whole.
Sri Krishna Janma Bhoomi also known as Katra Keshav Dev temple, is the actual birthplace of Lord Krishna. A bigger temple was constructed to replace the old temple during the reign of Emperor Chandragupta Vikramaditya (4th century CE). This temple used to one of the grandest temples in India until it was destroyed by Ghazni Mahmud in 11th century. In 1150 AD, Jajja during the rule of Vijay Pal Deva rebuilt the temple but the temple was destructed by other Muslim ruler Sikandar Lodi in 16th century. The fourth temple was built during the rule of Mughal emperor Jahangir by Veer Singh Bundela of Orchaa. But it was again destroyed by Aurangzeb in 1669 AD and a mosque named Jami Masjid was built in the place of the temple.
During British rule Madan Mohan Malviya took the land from Raja Krishna das of Banaras. Later on, inspired by him few leading personalities like Jugal Kishore Birla, Jaidayal Dalmia and many others formed a private trust to overtake the construction work on the site and finally the temple was completed in 1965.
According to the legend, King Vasudeva and his wife Devaki were imprisoned by Kansa, the king of Mathura at this place. He imprisoned them due to a prophecy which stated that the king will be killed by his sister's child. The temple is constructed over the prison, which is believed to be the birthplace of Lord Krishna.
The temple here can be divided into three parts - Garbhagriha (actual site of birth), Keshavadeva and the Bhagvata Bhavan. Another temple, dedicated to the Ashthabhuja Ma Yogmaya stands near the entrance of the sanctum sanctorum. The prison cell was gradually turned into the present beautiful temple. The temple shares a common wall with the mosque and devotees have to undergo a security check.
Several artifacts along with utensils, old statues and a rock based slab have been excavated from this site. The artifacts are displayed in a museum near the main temple which is not to be missed. One can also find several shrines dedicated to other Hindu gods in the temple premises.                                                                       Source: https://www.trawell.in/uttar-pradesh/mathura/sri-krishna-janmabhoomi-temple  

PAGAL BABA TEMPLE.
    
                                                  All three photos Pagal Baba Temple.

Pagal Baba Temple was built by the Late Pagal Baba as he was fondly known by his followers. A positive vibe runs throughout the temple which is reminiscent of the spirit of its creator.
Pagal Baba Temple is an important piece of modern architecture. This imposing gleaming white structure is one of the main temples in Vrindavan. You can have a good look of the city from the top floor. The temple is famous for its puppet exhibition in the ground floor. The puppets play act scenes from the two great Epics if India, Mahabharata and Ramayana. Outside the temple you will find many shops selling devotional items like flowers, incense stick and dresses for idol. The temple is decorated by the followers of Pagal Baba during Holi and Janmashthami.
Source : https://www.indianholiday.com/tourist-attraction/vrindavan/holy-places-in-vrindavan/pagal-baba-temple.html
Pagal baba temple of Vrindavan is a beautiful and magnificent structure reflecting a glimpse of fine modern architecture. The temple has eleven storeyed building of white marble. It presents a beautiful view of the city of Vrindavan from its topmost floor. It’s popular for its puppet exhibition depicting the incidents from Hindu epics of Mahabharata and Ramayana. The temple was built by Saint named Pagal baba (Shri Shri Sheela Nand Ji Maharaj) by his followers. 
Source : http://www.brajdarshan.in/pagal-baba-temple/

ISCON TEMPLE VRINDAVAN.

     
                                              ALL photos ISCON Temple. Vrindavan.

One of the most magnificent and beautiful temples of Vrindavan, ISKCON Temple was built by the International Society for Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON). The temple is popularly known as Raman-Reti and houses idols of Krishna and his brother Balaram, along with Radha besides her Shyam Sunder.
ISKCON Temple's complex is also the samadhi (final resting place) of the philosopher and founder of ISKCON, A. C. Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada, a white marble tomb that pays respect to his life and contributions. If you’re here around Janmashtami in September / October or for Holi in March, be sure to visit this temple for the sheer air of enthusiasm and celebration.
-- Read more: https://www.ixigo.com/iskcon-temple-vrindavan-india-ne-1700697 
ISKCON or International Society for Krishna Consciousness was established by Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada in 1966. The greater aim of the society is definitely the general well being of man kind. However its immediate aim is to popularize the teachings of the Bhagwad Gita and the Vedic scriptures and thereby create a clear perception in the minds of individuals. This is to help them to lead a simple yet pure and ethereal life. They are credited with the construction of as many as 6000 temples and the first of these is the ISKCON Temple at Brindavan.
History of the ISKCON Temple Vrindavan :
The ISKCON Temple at Vrindavan was built in the year 1975 and inaugurated on the auspicious occasion of Ram Navami. The foundation of the temple was laid by Swami Prabhupada, better known by the name of Srila Prabhupada. He personally supervised over the construction of the temple. After his sad demise, his body too was laid to rest in front of the temple and this place is now referred to as the Samadhi Mandir.
Description of the ISKCON Temple Vrindavan :
It is a beautiful edifice in white. Made of marble and further decorated with pieces of stone, it is a structure everyone is sure to look at with admiring eyes. Blessed with three altars, it boasts of a marvelous design. This is one of those Holy Places in Vrindavan that enjoys the reputation of being one of the foremost Tourist Attractions in Vrindavan. Other than devotees, it is frequented by lovers of architecture. 
The central altar is devoted to the brothers Krishna and Balaram, in fact this temple is also popularly known as Sri Krishna Balaram Mandir. The other two altars are dedicated to Sri Gaur Nitai and Sri Radha Shyamasundara. The central altar has been expanding ever since 1975 in keeping with Srila Prabhupada's desire of making it an international center for spiritualism. Over the years it has emerged as one of the most inspiring spiritual centers in the world.
The ambience of the temple is no doubt spiritual and also so very spirited. People from distinctly different backgrounds, from diverse nationalities are seen congregating at the ISKCON Temple to pray to Krishna, sing songs in his praise and seek his diving blessings.
It is a delight to see the various Aratis like the Samadhi Arati, the Mangala Arati, the Tulasi Arati, the Dhoop Arati, the Raj Bhoga Arati, the Pushpa Arati, the Sandhya Arati, the Shayana Arati and others at different times of the day. Within the temple premises Bhagvad Gita classes are also held in the mornings as well as in the evenings. Make sure to keep a whole day reserved for the ISKCON Temple in Uttar Pradesh, India. Open till 8.15 in the winters and 8.45 in the summers, this temple has a stress free ambience where one would like to spend quality time.
Source : https://www.indianholiday.com/tourist-attraction/vrindavan/holy-places-in-vrindavan/iskcon-temple.html
DELHI.
 Visit to ISCON Temple was over by 1115. Set course for Delhi fromthere itslf.
Had lunch about 25 KMs short of Palwal around 1325. 
Reached Ajeet House at 1630.
END OF THE TRIP.