14 August 2024.
Our Leh Trip 08 to 16 August 2024.
Today's road journey.
Leh - Kargil, via - Magnetic Hill and Sangam View Point.
Today we proceed to Kargil to see the Kargil War Memorial and pay our homage to all those brave hearts who made supreme sacrifices and wrote stories of unparalleled valour with their blood.
The distance from Leh to Kargil is 220 km.
Before reaching Kargil, we will have two stoppages, one at Magnetic Hill and the other at Sangam View Point.
Magnetic Hill is a point on the road around 27 km from Leh. It is marked by a very prominent yellow signboard on which is written.
"WELCOME TO
MAGNETIC HILL
THE PHENOMENON THAT DEFIES
GRAVITY PARK YOUR VEHICLE IN
THE BOX MARKED WITH PAINT ON THE
ROAD & EXPERIANCE THE WONDER"
KTN
( spell error in Experience is of KTN)
The road was recently resurfaced. It was a brand new road where road markings like sidelines, as well as centreline markings, were yet to be done. The box where we were supposed to park our car was also not there. Parking the vehicle for any amount of time in the centre of the road to test this "phenomenon which defies gravity " was just not possible due to considerable two-way traffic with hardly any gap. There were restaurants on both sides of this tourist spot, One restaurant combined dune buggy rides as well.
We had visited Magnetic Hill in 1997, Even then the spot was marked by a yellow board erected by the Vijayak Division of Border Roads Organisation with the writing
MAGNETIC HILL THE PHENOMENON THAT DEFIES GRAVITY
PARK YOUR VEHICLE IN THE BOX
MARKED WITH WHITE PAINT ON ROAD.
Other than this board, there was nothing whatsoever, no restaurants, not even a tea shack to indicate that this was an important landmark or a tourist spot. But near the board in the middle of the road, a yellow-painted rectangle with approximate dimensions to park a car was painted.
We looked around, as far as our eyes could see there was no traffic. No vehicles of any type could be seen. Our MTD (a moniker for Air Force driver ) Parked the gypsy in the painted rectangle. Put the gypsy in neutral and got down. Closed the door and walked to stand next to us. Nothing happened.
Both the boards had failed to mention what would happen if car was parked in the box, or what was this gravity-defying phenomenon which was on a gentle slope in the road,
Our MTD who had taken almost every Air Force guest to this tourist attraction informed us that a car parked in the box in neutral gear "on its own rolls UP HILL".
The MTD got in the car and drove the gypsy forward and backwards and again parked it in the box, got out and stood next to us. Again nothing happened. After a couple of more tries, we gave up and returned to AF Station. All this while not a single vehicle of any kind had passed on that road.
During this visit in 2024, the traffic of all kinds of vehicles was so heavy that blocking the road for any amount of time was impossible. No experiment could be done.
We were just not able to see the "gravity-defying phenomenon." After wandering around and taking photos of a few more boards erected nearby, one big board by Vijayank gave some historical facts and info about rock paintings. we continued with our journey.
The next halt was at Sangam View Point.
Sangam View Point is just 4-5 km from Magnetic Hill and around 30 km from Leh. This place is at an altitude of 10657 feet. From here, way below, you have a wonderful view of the confluence of two rivers (Sangam), the Indus and Zanskar.
From the viewpoint, one sees Zanskar Valley Road, the bridge on which the Zanskar Valley Road crosses the Zanskar River, buildings of Sangam Restaurant, the valley and mountain ranges, the Sangam itself where the muddy waters of mighty Indus just refusing slate-coloured waters of the weaker Zanskar River from mixing, all these presents you with a really breathtaking view. Took a lot of photos and set the course for Kargil.
After leaving Sangam Point we did not stop for the next 4 hours, a distance of about 190 km, till we reached Hotel Zozila Residency at Kargil where we were supposed to stay the night. No stoppages did not prevent me from taking almost 35 odd photos on the move from a moving car of whatever I felt presented an interesting sight.
The reason for the haste was to cater for the time taken for room allocation to the group members, settle the luggage in the room, freshen up, and have lunch then travel for one hour around 54-55 km to Kargil War Memorial with sufficient time to go around and see everything before the closing time. Even though appeared to be a bit taxing, the time management by the Kaseri Tour Manager was quite good as we had plenty of time to leisurely and detailed look around The Kargil War Memorial.
The Kargil War Memorial, though not very common, but also known as the Drass War Memorial.
The Kargil War Memorial was built and is being maintained by the Indian Army to pay homage to all those army personnel who made supreme sacrifice and valiantly fought to ensure our win in the war of 1999, in one of the most difficult and hostile terrain.
I am a curious creature by nature. "WHY" is a word, always at the forefront of my thoughts.
As we were nearing the Kargil War Memorial, the why was " Why Kargil war."
1. We have fought many wars. The latest was in 1999
which was limited to the Drass, Turtuk and Batalik sectors in Ladakh.
All the earlier wars are generally referred to by the year in which they were fought. That is, the wars of 1947, 1962, 1965, 1971, however, the 1999 war is not referred to as the 1999 war but as the Kargil War. WHY?
2. As mentioned the most fierce and hard-fought war was in the Drass, Turtuk and Batalik Sectors no where near Kargil.
The closest of these places, Batalik is 55 km from Krgil town. The War Memorial is built 10 km from Drass and over 50 km from Kargil. Even then 1999 war is referred to as the Kargil War Kargil War Memorial. WHY?
The answer to both these questions is electronic media. As written by Amrita Jash in ORF "The big boom in electronic media in India coincided with the war, resulting in live coverage and in-depth analysis of a war ... "
Kargil was the only place where decent accommodation was available. Media reporters and TV crew were already located in Kargil when the war broke out. From the Government side free hand was given to the journalists. The Army also extended and allowed full access to journalists even in the battle zone. Videos taken live of the fighting in the war zone, booming of the Bofors Guns and Bofors shells exploding on targets like the Tiger Hill peaks were brought to the offices and thousands in living rooms in India. This was the first televised war in India and for that Matter in Southeast Asia. and the "war" was brought in the drawing rooms of Indian households. Journalist Barkha Datt's interview of Vikram Batra after a fierce battle and victory, at point 5140 in which Vikram Batra says “My company’s success signal was ‘Yeh Dil Maange More’. The guys were so highly charged up that they wanted that more bunkers should have been there and we would have got more chaps.” is immortalised in the Indian psyche.
There must have been times when there was a lull in the fighting, but TV channels projecting to the Indin households were at it full blast
24 X7, as long as the war lasted.
And all this was "perfixed" or "ended with", so and so "Reporting from Kargil". Kargil was on every one's mind and had become a household name.
That is why it is The Kargil War and not the war of 1999.
Kargil War Memorial / Drass War Memorial.
During the war capture of Tololing Hill, the first enemy position to fall, was the turning point of the war and a psychological blow to Pakistan.
Fittingly the War Memorial is located at the base of TololingHill which is about 10 km from Drass and 50 km from Kargil.
We visited the memorial on the 14th of August, the next day being Independence Day, major functions and parades were planned for, and when we visited, practice for the next day's programme was going on. Due to this, we could not get a closer look at
Cenotaph, and the Wall of Fame. .
For ease of description and viewing, the War Memorial can be subdivided into the following areas.
For ease of description and viewing, the War Memorial can be subdivided into the following areas.
Vijay Path,
Cenotaph,
Wall of Fame,
Veer Bhumi,
Hut of Remembrance,
The Tri-Colour,
The war Machines on display.: The Mig-21,
155MM FieldHowitzer77B02:Bofors Gun, 75/24 Pack Howitzer.
Vijay Path.
Just after the entry gate, Standing at the beginning of "Vijay Path" or Road to Victory. [ 'Vijay' means Victory & 'Path' means Road]
Road to Victory is a broad well well-maintained black-top road. Approximately 130 meters Long, it is lined on both sides by evenly spaced flowerbeds with flowering plants.
Road to Victory is a broad well well-maintained black-top road. Approximately 130 meters Long, it is lined on both sides by evenly spaced flowerbeds with flowering plants.
During our visit, all the flowering plants were in full bloom and presented a riot of colours. Between the Vijay Path and the flowerbeds tricolours proudly flutter on evenly spaced flagpoles.
On either side of the Vijay Path, just outside of the flowerbeds, Eight bust statues of those brave hearts who won the highest of gallantry awards of the nation, four on each side, two of the winners of Param Veer Chakra and six of Maha Veer Chakra winners are installed.
The first two bust Statues, on either side of the Vijay Path, are those of Capt Batra and Maj Manoj Pande both winners of Param Veer Chakra, the highest national award for gallantry in war.On either side of the Vijay Path, just outside of the flowerbeds, Eight bust statues of those brave hearts who won the highest of gallantry awards of the nation, four on each side, two of the winners of Param Veer Chakra and six of Maha Veer Chakra winners are installed.
All in all, Vijay Path looked very impressive and beautiful. As our visit was on the eve of Independence Day the whole place was being beautified further.
Cenotaph,
The central feature of the memorial is a pink sandstone wall bearing a brass plate engraved with names of the soldiers who died during Operation Vijay the code word for The Kargil war called by Army Headquarters. It houses the Amar Jawan Jyoti or the ‘eternal flame’ for soldiers, and carries an extract from the poem ‘Pushp ki Abhilasha’ by Makhanlal Chaturvedi
चाह नहीं, में सुश्बाला के गहनों में गूँया जाऊ,चाह नहीं प्रेमी माला में बिद्य प्यारी को ललचाऊँ ।
मुझे तोड़ लेना, वनमाली, उस पथ में देना तुम फेंक,
मातृभूमि पर शीश चढ़ाने, जिस पथ जाएँ वीर अनेक
Amar Jawan Jyoti: The Amar Jawan Jyoti, or the Flame of the Immortal Soldier, is a sacred and solemn feature of the memorial, that symbolizes the eternal spirit and sacrifice of the soldiers. It is a large and circular structure, that has a cenotaph in the center, with a rifle and a helmet on it. The cenotaph is surrounded by four pillars, that have the words "Mera Bharat Mahan" (My India is Great) on them. The cenotaph also has a flame that burns continuously, day and night, in the memory of the martyrs. The visitors can pay their respects and offer their salutations to the cenotaph, and observe a moment of silence.
Wall of Fame(,Memorial Wall).
Veer Bhumi,
The Tri-Colour.
The war Machines on display.:
155MM FieldHowitzer77B02:Bofors Gun,
Amar Jawan Jyoti: The Amar Jawan Jyoti, or the Flame of the Immortal Soldier, is a sacred and solemn feature of the memorial, that symbolizes the eternal spirit and sacrifice of the soldiers. It is a large and circular structure, that has a cenotaph in the center, with a rifle and a helmet on it. The cenotaph is surrounded by four pillars, that have the words "Mera Bharat Mahan" (My India is Great) on them. The cenotaph also has a flame that burns continuously, day and night, in the memory of the martyrs. The visitors can pay their respects and offer their salutations to the cenotaph, and observe a moment of silence.
Wall of Fame(,Memorial Wall).
The memorial wall is the most touching and emotional feature of the memorial, it bears the names of 527 soldiers who laid down their lives for the nation. The wall is a long and curved structure, that has granite panels with the names, ranks, and units of the martyrs engraved on them. The wall also has the words "Shaheedon Ki Chitaon Par Lagenge Har Baras Mele, Watan Par Marne Walon Ka Yahi Baaki Nishaan Hoga" (There will be fairs on the pyres of the martyrs every year, this will be the only remaining mark of those who died for the nation) on it. The wall is a place where the visitors can feel the pain and pride of the families and friends of the martyrs, and express their gratitude and admiration for them.
Veer Bhumi,
On the left side of the War Museum is the memorial ground called “Veer Bhumi,” where the names of Indian soldiers along with their rank are inscribed on the memorial stones. It also mentioned when and how they gave up their lives fighting enthusiastically till their last breath.
A magnificent sculpture of the soldiers is created to celebrate the victory, with soldiers holding India’s tricolor flag against a mighty hill.
A magnificent sculpture of the soldiers is created to celebrate the victory, with soldiers holding India’s tricolor flag against a mighty hill.
Hut of Remembrance,
This is also called Capt Manoj Pandey Operation Vijay Gallary. Zoom and See the plaque constructed on the right bottom of the photo.
The Hut of Remembrance is divided into three sections. In the first section, the revered ashes of the martyrs named Shradha Soman Kalash are kept in a pot. The Shradhanjali Kalash is presented to the Indian Army every year on Vijay Diwas (26 July). It is featured by a Delhi-based NGO known as “Citizen’s Society of India” in memory of the soldiers who made the supreme sacrifice during Operation Vijay.
In the same section, we saw some letters of the Indian Army to their families and nationalistic poems written by the soldiers during the war. The poem “Agnipath” by Harivansh Rai Bachchan, with a message from his famous son Amitabh Bachchan, was an absolute source of inspiration for anyone who reads it.
In the second section, we came across some real pictures of the army men from the war and the places where the battle occurred. On the other side, photographs of some of the famous war heroes along with the national awards presented to them were also displayed on the wall.
In the third section, some seized weapons like the G-3 Rifle, Universal Machine Guns, and AK47s were kept in a showcase. On the wall, images of Pakistani forces and their captured identity cards proved the fact that the intruders who occupied the Indian territories were from Pakistan. Towards the end of the war memorial, we saw an inverted Pakistani flag captured during the battle. It reminded us of our glorious victory and the humiliating defeat of the rival forces.
The Hut of Remembrance is divided into three sections. In the first section, the revered ashes of the martyrs named Shradha Soman Kalash are kept in a pot. The Shradhanjali Kalash is presented to the Indian Army every year on Vijay Diwas (26 July). It is featured by a Delhi-based NGO known as “Citizen’s Society of India” in memory of the soldiers who made the supreme sacrifice during Operation Vijay.
In the same section, we saw some letters of the Indian Army to their families and nationalistic poems written by the soldiers during the war. The poem “Agnipath” by Harivansh Rai Bachchan, with a message from his famous son Amitabh Bachchan, was an absolute source of inspiration for anyone who reads it.
In the second section, we came across some real pictures of the army men from the war and the places where the battle occurred. On the other side, photographs of some of the famous war heroes along with the national awards presented to them were also displayed on the wall.
In the third section, some seized weapons like the G-3 Rifle, Universal Machine Guns, and AK47s were kept in a showcase. On the wall, images of Pakistani forces and their captured identity cards proved the fact that the intruders who occupied the Indian territories were from Pakistan. Towards the end of the war memorial, we saw an inverted Pakistani flag captured during the battle. It reminded us of our glorious victory and the humiliating defeat of the rival forces.
The Tri-Colour.
A magnificent Tri Colour flies proudly near the Centopath
This giant National Flag was presented by the Flag Foundation of India to the Kargil War Memorial on 26 July 2012.
It measures 11.4 by 7.6 metres (37+1⁄2 by 25 ft) and weighs 15 kg, It is mounted on a 30-metre (100 ft) flag pole.
It measures 11.4 by 7.6 metres (37+1⁄2 by 25 ft) and weighs 15 kg, It is mounted on a 30-metre (100 ft) flag pole.
The war Machines on display.:
The Mig-21,
The Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-21 NATO code name: Fishbed, is a supersonic jet fighter, interceptor and ground attack aircraft.
The MiG-21FL was the first of four major variants to serve with the IAF.
Mig 21 has served as the backbone of the IAF's fighter fleet for over six decades, participating in numerous conflicts and operations. From
Indo-Pakistani wars of 1965 and 1971 to the Kargil War of 1999, the Mig has been instrumental in defending Indian Air space and conducting precision strikes against enemy targets as it had done in the Kargil War.
Its agility, speed, and versatility have made it a formidable adversary in aerial combat scenarios.
The MiG-21FL was the first of four major variants to serve with the IAF.
Mig 21 has served as the backbone of the IAF's fighter fleet for over six decades, participating in numerous conflicts and operations. From
Indo-Pakistani wars of 1965 and 1971 to the Kargil War of 1999, the Mig has been instrumental in defending Indian Air space and conducting precision strikes against enemy targets as it had done in the Kargil War.
Its agility, speed, and versatility have made it a formidable adversary in aerial combat scenarios.
This Mig 21, at display at Kargil War Memorial, belonged to 17 Sqn which took part in The Kargil War. The Squadron Was commanded by Wing Commander Ajay Ahuja who made the supreme sacrifice when he was shot down by an enemy missile while strafing a well-defended enemy position.
He was awarded posthumously Veer Chakra.
He was awarded posthumously Veer Chakra.
155MM FieldHowitzer77B02:Bofors Gun,
The Kargil War proved to be one of the most fierce artillery exchanges of independent India'. When images of bofors gunfiring three round bursts, in high angle, despite enemy counter bombardment, were etched on the indian psyche. The gunners fired over 2.5 lakh roundsof ammunetion, causing causing over 80% enemy casualties during the operations, and facilitatedthe capture of one objctive after another by our indomitable infentry.
Text taken from the Information board displayed near the gun.
Text taken from the Information board displayed near the gun.
Here are some data points for the 155 mm Bofors gun:
- Caliber: 155 mm
- Crew: 6 people
- Maximum speed: 70 km/h when towed, 8 km/h when self-propelled
- Rate of fire: 10 rounds per minute (maximum)
- Gun elevation/depression -3° to +70°
- Traverse: ±60° in total
- Maximum ammunition range: 24,000 meters standard, 30,000 meters extended
The 155 mm Bofors gun is a mainstay of the Indian army's artillery firepower.
75/24 Pack Howitzer.
The 75/24 Pack Howitzer (75/24 Indian Mountain Gun) is a towed howitzer developed in India and saw extensive use in the Indian Army.The circumstances leading to the defeat during the Sino-Indian War led to a lot of introspection. The difficulties faced in the deployment of artillery on the heights led to the army to develop a light mountain gun. This programme was led by Brigadier Gurdial Singh and it delivered quick results.
By 1963, the first prototypes of the 75/24 mountain pack howitzer had been developed by the Armament Research & Development Establishment (ARDE) and other Ordnance Factories based on a Canadian design. The Solid State Physics Laboratory, Delhi was involved in the development of the VT fuze of the howitzer.] This thus became the country’s first indigenously made artillery gun. The Gun Carriage Factory Jabalpur started manufacture of the guns in 1968. The gun is lightweight and can be disassembled into multiple units and transported by mules in mountains as well as carried by helicopters. It weighs 983 kg and could fire up to a maximum range of 11,104 metres
By the time we finished going around it was approaching 1530 and we had to travel far to reach Kargil. With a heavy heart, we bid goodbye to the Kargil War memorial.
