Our Travels

Our Leh Trip - 08 TO 16 August 2024.

13 August 2024

Today's road journey.

Pangong Tso - Changla Pass - Hemis Monastery - Rancho's School - Leh.

Pangong Tso was quite pleasant and we were comfortable in a shirt during the day.

Evening, at the banks of Pangong Tso light sweater was sufficient. However, the nights were very cold. The resort had catered for cold nights and provided sufficient wam covering.

Early morning was cold and a windcheater had to be worn to keep warm.

Set a course for the return journey after breakfast.

This time we were travelling on the same route we had travelled in 1997. But what change in the road condition, it was as good as any of the national highways and may be better than quite a few. Around Tangste the road was as smooth as a baby's bum, there were even street lights along the road. In 1997 it wasn't easy to discern the road and boulder-strewn landslide.

The first halt for tea was at Nomadic Farm and Restaurant, after about 70 km about an hour and 15 minutes, this timing should be a very good indication of the road condition. The restaurant was not open, however, the proprietors and staff were around as it seemed to be yak milking time. Milking operations continued but they also opened the restaurant and took our orders. The tea menu for restaurants in this region, Kashmiri Kesar Qawa, Shahi Qawa and various types of tea eg Milk Tea, Masala Tea, Lemon Tea, Ginger Tea, and Mint Tea to name a few, seem to be the norm. By the time we got and finished our tea, milking operations were over and all the animals were let out for grazing in pastures across the road from the enclosure. By then we were also ready to proceed with our journey.

Next halt was Changla Pass.

What a change from the scene in August 1997 to August 2024.

In, 17 -22 August, 1997. It was a plain 9-foot-wide blacktop road passing through a desolate land. Except for a few workers of Border Road Organisation and our fellow bus passengers, not a soul was around. There were snowbanks by the roadside and plenty of snow on the surrounding mountains. See photos.

In 8-16 August 2024, This time there was a paved area of interlocking blocks the size of almost a football field., with a two-lane highway, at least 40 to 50 vehicles and hundreds of tourists. Lots of billboards announcing the presence of Gunners and other army units, an MI Room ( medical Inspection room) to provide medical assistance. Photo and View Points made and marked as such where people were clicking away merrily on their smartphones. We also paid a visit to the reception room of Trishul Divison. There was a small temple of Changla Baba, a Stupa or Chorten as stupas are sometimes called. Lots of colourful buntings. Changla Pass presented a festive and mela-like atmosphere. Snow was notable for its absence. Unwelcome side effects of progress and ever-increasing popularity of Leh-Ladakh as a tourist destination.

After thoroughly enjoying all that Changla Pass had to offer we continued with our journey. Next halt Hemis Monastery.

Information given below is from the text given on the information board at the central courtyard of Hemis monastery.

Hemish Monastery.

"Ηemis Monastery is the largest monastic institution in Ladakh. It belongs to the Drukpa Lineage or the Dragon Order of Mahayana Buddhism, with His Holiness the Gyalwang Drukpa as its supreme spiritual head. Gayalwa Gatsangpa Gonpo Deric (1189-1258), a main disciple of the 1st Gyalwang Drukpa, Tsangpa Gyare Yeshe Dorje (1161-1211), and one of the most celebrated yours in the Himalayas, came to Ladake in the 13th century and established the Drukpa Lineage here. Gyalwa Gotsangpa mediated in a cave on the edge of the mountain above Hermes Monastery, where a meditation centre named after him was established.

In the 17th century, the 1st Taktsang Repa, Ngawang Gyatso (1593 1637 popularly known as "Taktsarig Shambunath" and also in Ladakhi Language as "Staktsang Raspa", who was another great Drukpa Lineage master, became the Royal Preceptor of the Kingdom of Ladakh and with the support of King Sengge Namgyal (1616-1645), he founded the Hemis Monastery. Taktsang Repa was sent by his gurus, the 5th Gyalwang Drukpa, Pagsam Wangpo (1593-1653), and the 1st Drukpa Yongdzin Rinpoche, Lhatsewa Ngawang Zangpo (1546-1615), to Ladakh in order to spread the teachings of Lord Buddha and to benefit the people here.

Taktsang Repa arrived in 1624 and founded Hanley Monastery, the first monastic institution belonging to the Drukpa Lineage. Two years later Taktsang Repa arrived at Hemis and was received by King Sengge Namgyal and members of the Royal Court. The King had the abode known as Samter Ling, which is still intact, built at Hemis, where Taktsang Repa preached for many years. Taktsarig, Repa's arrival resulted in the flourishing of the Drukpa Lineage in Ladakn and neighbouring Himalayan regions. He and his successive reincarnations became the spiritual gurus of Ladakhi Kings and their people.

The 2nd Taktsang Repa took the great-grandson of King Deden Nanıgyal, Prince Mipham Tsewang Thrinley Tenzin Migyur Dorje, popularly known as Gyaisey Rinpoche, under his care and gave him the basic spiritual education. Gyalsey Rinpoche later went to Tibet to receive his full ordination vows and spiritual training from many great masters.

The Annual Hemis Festival that takes place on the 10th and 11th day of the 5th Lunar Calendar was introduced by Gyalsey Rinpoche.

Hemis has more than 200 branch monasteries in the Himalayas and more than 1,000 monks under its care. It is an important living monument and heritage of the Himalayas and its people."

There are three wings/ temple complexes each has wonderful hanging silk tapestries, statues works of art and paintings. Photography is prohibited in inside these temples. It deprives the visitor of a record of their visit. More importantly, it denies them the pleasure of re-looks at these beautiful sacred objects. I have never understood the policy of denial of photography inside such institutions. There is a large museum with a vast collection of rare, antique and historical importance. If one wants to visit this museum sincerely one full day must be spent just to see the museum. There is a shop operated by the monks selling memorabilia related to Ladakh and Hemis Monastery.

While on the way back from Hamis Monastery saw a magnificently beautiful Stupa. Unfortunately, we did not stop, as is my habit took a few photos on the move from the moving car. A little bit of research revealed that this place is Naropa Stupa/Naro Photang. Where a grand yearly festival takes place. Wish we had stopped to have a look.

Then on to lunch at a place called Neryok's Indus View Camp. Beautiful location with a great view. The food was also OK.

Next halt was at the famous Druk Padma Karpo School or Druk White Lotus School, Many, including myself had never heard of this school. This school not only became famous as a household name " Rancho's school" from the hit Bollywood film '3 Idiots'. Also became a tourist attraction. Initially, unrestricted access was allowed to the visitors, however, the adverse impact and disruption caused in the studies of the students nowadays only limited access is now granted. Rancho's wall a bit of garden and a "bum seat' area and the suvonier Shop are the only places where entry is allowed. Got a photo sitting in three idiot bum seats. Wondered if I looked like one :-)

After Rancho School, it was back to our hotel in Leh.

On the way took photos of anything that looked interesting or took my fancy.

In the evening went to Summer Harvest restaurant to have local cuisine. The Restaurant and food were quite nice.